French polish station and gourmet food station.
French polish, whole wheat spaghetti with sauce made from my garden, salad, and a glass of wine.
Stringing and the 12 hole tie-block
Traditionally, tie-blocks have one hole for each string. The single hole method results in a loop around the string between the tie-block and the saddle, which does a couple of things that are annoying. The first is to lessen the breakover angle. The second is that the wrap around the string actually can sever the string due to friction and tension. The 12 hole tie-block is a nice variation in that it avoids those issues.
The next few pictures show how to tie using the 12 hole block. Later, I’ll do another post on what happens at the other end.
It’s easy to lose concentration while installing strings, so I use a cardboard piece to protect the top.
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- The high E string. This is partially superstitious, the burning of the end. However, I almost always have done it since I was a teenager. Playing with fire… After determining which end of the string goes to the bridge…
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- For the treble strings that have a burnt end, they follow this process: First insert the tuner end of the string into the left hole (which is slightly higher on the tieblock.)
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- 2. The string goes through the tie-block and loops around to the next hole to the right, and through it to the front of the tie-block.
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- 3. Concentrating on the balled end, I put a small bend about a quarter inch from the end. Note that the end now goes through the loop.
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- 4. Now hold the end against the tie-block. The next step is to pull the string and the end will get caught in the bight.
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- Here the left hand pulls the string. You can clearly see the bass string, which has already been secured.
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- Be Careful burning the string ends
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- Hold the string while the loop tightens
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- Here is the loop
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- Another angle on the loop
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- All the strings are secured.
And now, a musical interlude with my friend Hanh
Hanh is such a lovely person. And she can play guitar with so much technical expertise and passion.
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3 piece back for an 8 string guitar
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- It is just a bit of added effort to make a 3 piece back, but the rewards are worth it.
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- This mold is a slightly different body shape than the one for this guitar, but it starts to make me excited to envision the guitar.
Carving the neck: steps and pictures
This is a a guitar built for my own preference. A shorter scalelength, simple themes.
And the neck profile that I like best, with a taper down to a not too thin first position location.
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- Thicknessed. 22.5mm thick at first fret. 25 at 9th. Before carving the profile, it is very flat.
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- Ready to start carving The tools are next to the guitar
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- Here is the template and the neck after just a few strokes with the drawknife.
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- Another view of the template on the neck, with pencil marks where the template touches wood. That area goes away.
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- After a bit more carving, and the template gets closer to a fit
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- Let’s lay out the lines for the relieve of the volute on the head/neck .
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- Carve to the line, transition between surfaces
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- The perfect fit.
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- Big picture
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- You have to look in different lighting from different angles to make sure it’s right
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- Another angle
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- Another lighting
Guitar for Larry
This gallery contains 17 photos.
I have been working on this guitar for a long time! It is worthy of some good pictures, so I put together a gallery. I’ll try to get some sounds together. It sounds like Segovia recordings (without Segovia). Here is … Continue reading
Center Back Inserts
This gallery contains 5 photos.
From time to time I’d like to use a set that is too small. I could add “wings to the edge of the set, but I like adding a contrasting center strip, or wedge insert to the back. Here are … Continue reading
Locating and Gluing a Bridge
This gallery contains 18 photos.
If I get the picture in order, everything should be clear…. but feel free to comment or ask questions.
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Miscellaneous and etc.
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- Neck is shaped, Volute too.
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- Fits perfect.
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- The case. Hiscox Liteflite Artist.
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